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ALTERNATOR WARNING LIGHT
"What does that little red light that says ALT mean when it comes
on?" Very basically, it means that either the alternator output voltage is
lower than the battery voltage, or the battery voltage is lower than the
alternator output voltage. If the light gets dimmer as you rev up the engine,
then you most likely have a problem with the alternator. If it gets brighter,
then the battery is most likely bad.
That's all well and good, but just exactly what does all that mean? To get a
good idea, it is first necessary to understand how an alternator works. You
don't need an engineering degree, just a basic understanding of the general
principles. Figure 1, below, is a block diagram, or a "functional"
diagram, of an alternator, and its connections to the remainder of the
automobile electrical system. Following the figure is a description of the
various components that make up an alternator, and a description of how each
operates to keep the battery charged in your car.

ALTERNATOR ROTOR
We'll start our tour of the alternator where it all starts in the alternator
itself - at the alternator rotor. The rotor consists of a coil of wire wrapped
around an iron core. Current through the wire coil - called "field"
current - produces a magnetic field around the core. The strength of the field
current determines the strength of the magnetic field. The field current is D/C,
or direct current. In other words, the current flows in one direction only, and
is supplied to the wire coil by a set of brushes and slip rings. The magnetic
field produced has, as any magnet, a north and a south pole. The rotor is driven
by the alternator pulley, rotating as the engine runs, hence the name
"rotor."
STATOR
Surrounding the rotor is another set of coils, three in number, called the
stator. The stator is fixed to the shell of the alternator, and does not turn.
As the rotor turns within the stator windings, the magnetic field of the rotor
sweeps through the stator windings, producing an electrical current in the
windings. Because of the rotation of the rotor, an alternating current is
produced. As, for example, the north pole of the magnetic field approaches one
of the stator windings, there is little coupling taking place, and a weak
current is produced, As the rotation continues, the magnetic field moves to the
center of the winding, where maximum coupling takes place, and the induced
current is at its peak. As the rotation continues to the point that the magnetic
field is leaving the stator winding, the induced current is small. By this time,
the south pole is approaching the winding, producing a weak current in the
opposite direction. As this continues, the current produced in each winding
plotted against the angle of rotation of the rotor has the form shown in figure
2. The three stator windings are spaced inside the alternator 120 degrees apart,
producing three separate sets, or "phases," of output voltages, spaced
120 degrees apart, as shown in figure 3.

OUTPUT DIODES
A/C voltage is of little use in a D/C system, such as used in an automobile,
so it has to be converted to D/C before it can be used. This conversion to D/C
takes place in the "output diodes" and in the "diode trio."
Diodes have the property of allowing current to flow in only one direction,
while blocking current flow in the other direction. The output diodes consist of
six diodes, one pair for each winding. One of the pair is for the negative half
cycle, and the other for the positive half cycle. As a result of this diode
rectification, the output of the alternator looks as shown in figure 4.

Surprisingly enough, the output of the alternator is not a pure D/C as one
might expect, but a pulsating D/C. Because there are three windings, each with a
positive and a negative half, by the time the voltage is passed through the
diodes, there are six pulsations for each rotation of the rotor. This is close
enough to D/C for most automotive components. Critical components, such as
radios, have their own internal filtering circuits to further smooth out the
waveform to a purer D/C.
DIODE TRIO
The diode trio consists, as the name suggests, of three diodes, one per
phase, which provides field current to the alternator regulator. This output
will be discussed in more detail later in the "field current supply"
section.
REGULATOR
The regulator has two inputs and one output. The inputs are the field current
supply and the control voltage input, and the output is the field current to the
rotor. The regulator uses the control voltage input to control the amount of
field current input that is allow to pass through to the rotor winding. If the
battery voltage drops, the regulator senses this, by means of the connection to
the battery, and allows more of the field current input to reach the rotor,
which increases the magnetic field strength, which ultimately increases the
voltage output of the alternator. Conversely, if the battery voltage goes up,
less field current goes through the rotor windings, and the output voltage is
reduced.
FIELD CURRENT SUPPLY
Field current supply is provided from two different sources - from the
alternator itself, via the diode trio, and from the battery, via the alternator
warning lamp. When you first get in the car and turn the key on, the engine is
not running and the alternator is not spinning. At this time, the
voltage/current source for the field current is from the battery, through the
ignition switch, and through the warning lamp. After the engine is started, and
the alternator is up to speed, the output of the diode trio is fed back to the
regulator, and serves as a source of current for the field current. At this
time, the alternator is self sustaining, and the battery is no longer needed to
power the automobiles electrical system WARNING!!! This is theoretical only - in
actual practice, the voltage surges resulting from disconnecting the battery can
seriously damage the regulator circuitry. All alternator manufacturers strongly
advise NOT doing this! This test will not prove the functionality of the
alternator anyway, as the engine may still run with a weak alternator output.
WARNING LAMP
This brings us back full circle to the starting point - the alternator
warning lamp. As can be seen from figure 5, a schematic for an actual
alternator, there is a path to ground from the field current supply input [1] to
the regulator. As a result, when the key is turned on, current flows through the
warning lamp, through the resisters, transistors, and field coil, and then to
ground, causing the lamp to illuminate. Once the alternator is at full output,
voltage from the diode trio, also applied to [1], equals the battery voltage. At
this time, with 12 volts on both sides, the lamp is out.

If the alternator should fail, voltage from the diode trio would drop, and
once again the lamp would light from the battery voltage. If the alternator
output is only a little low, the lamp will be dimly lit. If the alternator fails
completely, and the output voltage goes to zero, the lamp will be lit at full
brilliance. Conversely, if the battery should fail, and the battery voltage
drops, with the output voltage of the alternator on one side and the low battery
voltage on the other, the lamp will also light.
As stated earlier, if the light grows dimmer as the engine is revved up, it
is because the alternator voltage is rising with the RPM, producing more voltage
on the alternator side of the lamp. The closer the output voltage gets to the
battery voltage, the dimmer the bulb becomes. By the same way, if the light gets
brighter with increasing RPM, it is because as the alternator voltage increases,
it is getting higher than the battery voltage. The higher the voltage with
respect to the battery voltage, the greater the voltage difference across the
lamp, and the brighter it gets.
SUMMATION
In summary, then, we can say that field current through the rotor coils
produces a magnetic field, which is coupled over to the stator coils, producing
an AC voltage. This AC voltage is converted by the output diodes into pulsating
DC voltage, which charges the battery.
The field current is supplied from either the battery, via the warning lamp,
or from the diode trio. The amount of field current allowed to pass through the
regulator to the rotor, or field coil, is controlled by the voltage feedback
from the battery.
And there you have it - the complete operation of an alternator in a
nutshell. The next time you see the little red light, you will know exactly what
it is trying to tell you.
The above article has been provided courtesy of
Dan Masters
 

(click here for more complex alternator tricks)
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